Part Textile Apparel Building BlocksChapter T

Slide2Part 2: Textile/Apparel Building BlocksChapter 7 Textile Fabrics and Finishes

Slide3Objectives  Identify most common fabric constructions   Describe main fabric finishing procedures   Recognize importance of quality and performance standards   Summarize important aspects of the textile industry   Explain how finished fabrics are sold down the chain   Cite textile industry trade information   Tell about future predictions for textiles

Slide4Fabric Design andConstruction   Two forms of design   Structural Design   “Building in” texture or interest during manufacturing process   Weaving and knitting most common   Applied Design   Adding color, pattern, or other features to the structural design   Printing on fabric

Slide5Fabric ConstructionMethods   Weaving  Plain:  crosshatch pattern  Plain:  crosshatch pattern  Twill:  diagonal wale  Twill:  diagonal wale  Satin:  floating yarns  Satin:  floating yarns  Knitting  Weft  Warp  Nonwoven  Fused  Felted  Films

Slide6Fabric Terms  Grain – direction yarns run in the fabric   Lengthwise - warp   Crosswise - weft   Diagonal - bias   Selvage   “Finished” weft edge of fabric SELVAGE SELVAGE BIAS WARP WEFT CUT  EDGE

Slide7Variations of Weaves Stripes  Checks  Plaids  Jacquard  Pile fabrics  Terry cloth  Corduroy  Velvet

Slide8Knitting  Looping yarn together   Made using one yarn   Built-in stretch   Wrinkle resistant   Does not ravel like wovens, but may run   Weft (filling) stretches in both directions   Warp stretches one direction; run-proof

Slide9Nonwoven Fabrics Compact web of fibers (not yarns) constructed using  Moisture  Heat  Chemicals  Friction  Pressure  No grain

Slide10Other Construction Methods  Laces and Nets   Made by knotting   Decorative trim   Braids   Decorative trims   Bonded fabrics   Fusible web   Interfacing and hem tape   Quilted fabrics

Slide11Fabric Finishing Converters  Mills that change greige goods into finished fabrics  Applying colors, designs, or surface treatments  Bleaching  Dyeing  Printing  Finishes

Slide12Dyeing  Fiber   Adding color to fibers before spinning into yarns   Yarn   Placing yarns in dye bath before making into fabric   Piece   Fabrics dyed after weaving or knitting   Garment   Dyed after construction

Slide13Printing Adding color, pattern, or design to surface of fabric  Overall prints  Same across fabric  Directional prints  Specific direction to pattern  Plaids  Even - same in warp and weft  Uneven - different in warp or weft

Slide14PrintingMethods   Roller   Applies color design by roller   Screen   Similar to stenciling   Rotary Screen   Applies color design by cylinder- shaped nylon screens  Heat Transfer  Design on printed paper transferred to fabric by heat and pressure  Digital  Computer method uses ink-jet printing  Flocking  Fibers attached by patterned glue

Slide15Fabric Finishes  Mechanical finishes affect size and appearance   By heat, moisture, stretching, singeing   Example: preshrinking   Chemical finishes affect performance   Permanent press   Waterproof or water repellent   Flame resistant   Antistatic   Stain and soil resistant   Release substances such as antibiotics or insect repellants

Slide16Standards  Quality   Rate textiles according to levels of defects   Performance   Rate textiles for specific end-use suitability   Six Sigma   Measure and improve company’s statistical analysis to increase profits

Slide17The TextileIndustry  Specialized companies perform stages of the textile segment of the chain  Technology necessary  CAD/CAM  Fashion  Tracking designs, trends, forecasts  Marketing  Planning, pricing, promoting, distributing

Slide18Selling Finished Fabrics  Staple fabrics   Sold each year with little or no change in construction   Novelty fabrics   Fashion fabrics that change with style trends   Overruns   When a mill makes more fabric than was ordered by customers

Slide19Trade Information National Textile Association  Includes weavers, knitters, fabric-making companies, and firms that dye, print, and finish fabrics  American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)  Wet processing aspects

Slide20Future of Textiles  Continued U.S. innovation   Stay globally competitive   Fully automate plants   Use computerized methods to fill small orders for unique products   Increased knit production   Textile firms need more sophisticated marketing techniques

Slide21Do You Know . . . Colorfast  means a fabric's color will not change with time, use, or cleaning.  Hand  is the term used for textiles that refers to the way fabrics feel to the touch. Hand may apply to drape, softness, firmness, crispness, or elasticity.